Being challenged to a burger-off is not something I take lightly. Doing a classic felt too easy, so bold was the only option. Opting for lamb, a polarizing but intensely flavorful meat, required proper framing: generously salting the formed patties just before applying direct heat; a deeply browned crust from undisturbed searing; a reliably clean tzatziki spiked with nutty tahini to ground the tang; red onions quick-pickled in sweetened champagne vinegar cut through the richness; and a show-stopping ½" slab of feta cheese (you heard me) melted directly onto the patty. All components of this dish can be prepped a day in advance, as long as no salt makes its way into the meat (which runs the risk of making the burgers springy, like kebabs). This recipe's great year-round, especially in meatball form around the holidays. If you're making this recipe when grilling is less convenient, swap the plain yogurt in the tzatziki out for some smoked yogurt to get that fumé.
For the burgers
Makes 6 burgers
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 scallions, thinly sliced, green and white parts separated
1 tsp aleppo pepper
½ tsp cinnamon
½ tsp cumin
½ tsp nutmeg
¼ tsp clove
1 lb ground lamb
1 egg, well beaten
½ cup panko breadcrumbs
¼ cup fresh mint, finely chopped
Kosher salt
black pepper, freshly ground
6 slices feta cheese, ½" thick
2 oz baby arugula
6 martin's potato sandwich rolls, split and toasted
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat and lightly oil grate. In a small microwaveable bowl, combine olive oil, scallion whites, garlic, and dry spices. Microwave for 30 seconds, then stir and set aside. Alternatively, set a small skillet over medium-high heat with the olive oil. When shimmering, add the scallion whites, garlic, and dry spices. Cook until aromatic. Transfer to a large mixing bowl and allow to cool.
Once oil is cool enough to touch, add the panko breadcrumbs and egg. Whisk until well combined. Add the ground lamb, scallion greens and mint. Using your hands, blend the mixture until combined, but not packed or overworked.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Divide lamb mixture onto parchment into 6 portions. Gently pat into thin, 4-inch-round patties and transfer to the prepared sheet.
Generously season one side of patties with salt, then place on grill with the seasoned side down. Grill until lightly charred, about 4 minutes. Season patties with salt, flip, then top with feta. Grill the patties to desired doneness (about 4 minutes for medium). Transfer patties to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes before serving. Alternatively, set a large nonstick or cast iron skillet over medium high heat with 1 tbsp vegetable oil. Once shimmering, add patties in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan. Cook, undisturbed, until well seared, about 4 minutes. Season, flip, and top with feta cheese. Add ¼ cup water to the skillet and cover. Cook until moisture evaporates and cheese has begun to melt, about 3 minutes. Repeat as needed.
Build the burger with arugula, burger, tahini tzatziki, and quick-pickled onions.
For the Tahini Tzatziki
2 persian cucumbers, ¼" dice
½ tsp salt
1½ cups plain full-fat Greek yogurt
3 tbsp tahini
2 cloves garlic, grated
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp white vinegar
2 tsp fresh dill, finely chopped
2 tsp fresh mint, finely chopped
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
In a small bowl, add the cucumber and salt, then toss until coated evenly. Transfer to a fine mesh strainer set in a bowl and set aside for 30 minutes to drain
In a medium bowl, combine the yogurt, tahini, garlic, olive oil, and white vinegar. Add the strained cucumbers, dill, mint, and cayenne pepper to the yogurt mixture. Stir to combine, taste, and adjust seasoning with salt as needed.
For the Quick-pickled onions
2 tbsp champagne vinegar
1 tsp cane sugar
½ tsp salt
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
In a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, sugar, and salt until fully dissolved. Add the red onion and toss to coat evenly in the vinegar mixture. Set aside for 30 minutes to marinate.