Mac and cheese is a quintessential comfort food with showstopping capabilities and great expectations. Every scoop of pasta should be coated in molten dairy, followed by melted cheese stretching pan to plate.
The texture of the sauce, however, is a dealbreaker for me. Melting cheese into a roux-thickened sauce is a game of temperature management. Heat too aggressively and your sauce will break, turning simultaneously gritty and greasy. By stirring shredded cheddar- the most iconic choice for mac and cheese- into the bechamel in stages, you lower the risk of overheating the cheese as it melts. Just take your time and don't hesitate to remove the pan from heat occasionally. Sound like life advice? It is.
As for the stretches, there’s but one answer: add more cheese. This cheese melts in the heat of the oven and provides the ooey-gooey ooze that should make you moan a bit. You can really use whatever extra melt-friendly cheese you have on hand, but mozzarella is a reliable choice for graceful stretches.
The pasta is acting as a vehicle for the prized sauce, so it's important you so go for shapes with nooks and crannies big enough to scoop up some of the melted cheese and deliver the goods. Though not the titular macaroni, my go-tos are shells or pipe rigate.
Buttering up the baking dish helps get that corner-piece level of baked cheese flavor all over the bottom. Yes, there's more than half a stick of butter in this recipe but let's be honest: you're looking at a mac and cheese recipe so was "healthy" really your goal?
Serves 6-8
6 tbsp butter + more for greasing
4 slices sourdough bread, torn into ½" pieces
2 scallions, thinly sliced, green and white parts parts separated
3 large garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp thyme leaves, finely chopped
1 medium yellow onion, ¼" dice
3 tbsp flour
2 cups whole milk
1½ tsp salt
¼ tsp black pepper
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
3 cups sharp cheddar, shredded
1 pound medium pasta shells
4 ounces smoked mozzarella, torn into shreds
Preheat oven to 375°F. Fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil. Bust out your trusty cast iron pan or 9×9 baking dish and grease with up to 1 tbsp butter. Set aside.
Bring 1 gallon water to a boil and 3 tbsp salt. Meanwhile, add sourdough bread to a medium bowl. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tbsp butter. When butter bubbles, add scallion whites, 2 tsp garlic, thyme, ½ tsp salt. Sauté until scallion whites are translucent but not browned. Transfer to the bowl with bread and toss to coat evenly. Set sourdough croutons aside.
Return the medium saucepan to medium-high heat and add 4 tbsp butter. When butter bubbles, add the onion and remaining garlic. Cook until onion is softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining garlic and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the flour and stir until all the flour has absorbed the butter. Cook roux for 3 minutes. Slowly pour milk into the roux while whisking continuously. Continue cooking, stirring and scraping the bottom occasionally, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Remove the saucepan from heat and stir in 1 tsp salt, black pepper, cayenne pepper. Stir in ½ cup sharp cheddar until mostly melted. Repeat 3 more times, reserving 2 cups for later. Cover and set cheese sauce aside.
Follow box instructions to cook pasta until al dente. Drain pasta and return to the pot. Add the cheese sauce to the pasta and stir until well combined. Transfer half of the mac and cheese to the prepared cast iron skillet/baking dish. Scatter the smoked mozzarella and remaining sharp cheddar in an even layer over the mac and cheese, then top with the remaining mac and cheese. Using a rubber spatula, scrape out any remaining sauce and gently stir into the mac and cheese. Top with sourdough croutons and bake until croutons begin to brown and cheese sauce is bubbling around the edges, 20-25 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 5 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with scallion greens. Serve piping lava hot.